I’ve decided to use more video walkthroughs to show how far along the kitchen is. With how tall the ceilings are and how small the room is it’s hard to get any good shots without some type of fish eye lens. I’ve taken a few though, but I don’t feel they show the space as well as the video can.
So, here is my future kitchen layout.
Here are a couple snaps of what it looks like now
The doorway will be moved over to accommodate the cabinets.
Eliminating the windows is going to obviously get rid of all the natural light. To counteract this I bought a solar tube which I am going to install over the peninsula.
And here’s a quick 5 minute video walk through of the house and showing the kitchen.
Well now that my fantasy football season is over I guess it’s time to actually work on the house again(Rob Gronkowski broke into my house and raped me with a broom handle).
Before I could decide just what the hell I wanted to do in my kitchen I had to get the stair situation figured out. For reference here is what they used to look like
Going down them was described as “going down a ladder backwards” by a few crybabies. So this weekend I brought in some mexican day laborers and slammed in some steps.
So as you can see in this picture I switched the direction of the steps and since I am moving the door, I was able to cut out some floor to make some more headroom.
And this is how the stairs look from the basement. Much better than what was there. Wasn’t ecstatic over having to put a landing in, but I think they turned out nicely. You’ll also notice that I now have my 200 amp breaker box mounted.
Now that that creepiness is over : Here’s what I got done in a few hours tonight.
It is now mid November, the height of the “oh shit I should have stopped procrastinating on finishing this house” season. Outside high temperatures are around 30 degrees and will only be falling. So whats new since my last update?
Well, I finally put a front door on the house. It is really comforting being able to actually lock your house instead of hoping that none of your neighbors have a crowbar and a pill addiction. The door is fiberglass, which means it will take stain like wood and is very well insulated. My parents both came over and just swung it open and shut jealously. That’s what they get for buying a crappy Mastercraft door from Menard’s. The best part is that this door was only $350. The pictures don’t really do the glass in the window justice. I love how it looks.
After the door went on I started to demo the second bedroom. I don’t have a lot of pictures from this part but imagine shit getting knocked onto the floor and me shoveling it into a trailer.
With moving the walls to make the bedrooms bigger I was also forced to move a lot of the ductwork around. Crawling on my back with a spray bottle filled with water, a VOC mask on, then wetting and removing asbestos tape has inspired me to never get into HVAC as a career.
With the ductwork all moved I then ran new ceiling stringers, put in drywall nailers, pulled wire, placed outlets and switch boxes, insulated the exterior walls with closed cell spray foam, insulated the interior walls with R13, and then hung drywall. It all sounds so easy when squashed into one run on sentence.
Yesterday I had my friend come over and help me blow cellulose insulation into the attic. I put in around 16 inches of it, which according to the packaging, should be near an R-60 . I now have the furnace set to 65 and the house holds the heat incredibly well considering the fact that 1/3 of it(the kitchen and bathroom) are still basically uninsulated.
So what’s next? The two most expensive rooms in the house.
Here’s a video with my nasally childlike voice giving an updated walkthrough of the place.
Got a lot done on the house since my last update. I now have all of the drywall hung in the living room and I have the second bedroom nearly all demolished. I also have a new pedestal installed on the outside for where I will be running my new power. I currently have 60 amp service, but will be upgrading to a 200 amp breaker box.
Here are some pictures :
I promised and promised a walk through of the house, and now I have two!
This first one is from August 18th, before the majority of work got done.
This second one is from today, October 30th.
In other news : Even though I have no insulation in my ceiling and one room in my house is completely gutted, the house is staying around 55 with the furnace running only a few times a day. I also still need to put a front door on. I decided to wait until after Halloween so that I don’t have to deal with trick or treaters. I was thinking about sacrificing a neighborhood child as a warning to the others not to bother me.
Here’s me in my Halloween costume : “dusty guy who still thinks it’s cool to give a thumbs up”
So what did you guys do this weekend?
Here’s a bonus video of me enjoying myself(pants on)
This is what my living room looked like a few hours ago.
This is what it looks like right meow.
What you are looking at is a little over $500 worth of spray foam. Expensive? Very. I’d like to think I’m worth it though. Once again I used our touch n seal cpds closed cell foam. It was cold, and I had limited time, so I didn’t get the optimal expansion, but it turned out okay. I sprayed around 2 inches, giving me an air tight, moisture proof r14. I could have filled the entire cavity, but opted not to for cost reasons. I’ll be picking up some drywall later and throwing that on.
I had an opportunity earlier this week to use another type of closed cell spray foam so I figured I would share my experience. What I used was Dow chemicals refillable set up. I’ll start with what I liked about it first. The cost per board foot of dow’s chemicals is cheaper than what we are paying right now, the applicator gun feels more expensive and does a better job at keeping a 1 to 1 ratio, the tanks are larger so there is less down time swapping out product, and they had a much longer hose reach.
Now, the negative. Instead of an air compressor with a doubler like our machine has, it uses a nitrogen bottle as it’s propellant. Setting and maintaining equal pressures in each tank was kind of a hassle. The tanks are refillable, which means that there is the possibility of some jack ass pounding to much product into a tank at one time and creating excess moisture in the tanks. The problem with moisture is that it makes the chemicals crystallize and not mix properly and clog up the system. Finally, it seemed like there were more air voids in their foam than ours. Granted, the foam was a few months old, but it just didn’t seem as rigid as what we are applying.
All in all though, I wouldn’t have an issue with using either product but give a slight edge to our touch n seal based on my familiarity with it.
With walls up the next step is to pull wires and insulate this place.
This house has rough cut 2×4 walls so the R21 Fiberglass option is out. R13 Fiberglass could potentially be the way to go, but I want a way to eliminate air movement in my walls. If only there were some kind of magic material which had double the R value of fiberglass, was a moisture barrier, and I have access too.
Closed Cell spray foam insulation! R7 per inch(4xR7=R28). Very expensive to install($1.05 per board foot our cost) but it will pay for itself in 3 years due to no air movement knocking the heat out of my house. The only problem with this stuff is that you have to make sure you have a VOC Mask or even better, supplied air. It is a 2 part foam that loves moisture, and guess where there is a lot of that : your lungs. If you start spraying this stuff naked your lungs will be candy coated.
The spray foam that you see in Holmes on Homes and other DIY shows(spray 1/8 inch and it expands outside the walls) is an open cell foam which has the same R value as fiberglass and allows moisture to pass through, but is roughly half the cost. I want the highest R possible in my thin walls and I feel that closed cell is always the best option. We’ve done a lot of jobs tearing out improperly installed open cell with huge air voids so I simply don’t trust that product. An interesting fact about icynene brand spray foam : It can not stick to itself. If you spray it, cut it with a hot knife and there is an air void(which there can be a lot of) and you spray some more in, the product will not bond with the previously applied foam.
Next step : Hang drywall, climb up into the attic, spray the top of the drywall to create a 100% airseal.